Coastguard Boating Education

Day Skipper & Boatmaster Unit Standards increase in Value

Thu, 05 Aug 2010 00:00:00 +1200

Day Skipper & Boatmaster Unit Standards increase in Value

For those considering a career in the marine industry, be it a boat builder, ship’s captain or crewing on a super yacht, the recently revised increase in unit standards for Coastguard Boating Educations Day Skipper & Boatmaster courses will provide a tangible pathway towards their goal. Units can also contribute towards NCEA.

The revised units have undergone number changes. Level 2 Day Skipper, previously referred to as 6915, now has a value of 6 credits and has been renamed 26542. Level 3 Boatmaster (previously 6914) is now 26541 and is worth 16 credits.

Both Day Skipper and Boatmaster courses are nationally recognised and are held in high regard by many employers. Day Skipper is a 15 hour course as opposed to 30 hours for Boatmaster. In both courses the student will learn the rules and regulations, correct equipment to carry on board, emergencies, boat handling, navigation and rope work. The Boatmaster course is more in depth and expands in particular on the navigation module comprehensively covering chart work and navigation techniques.

As New Zealand’s leading provider of recreational boating courses, Coastguard Boating Education has a range of learning options to suit the individual. From classroom based courses to home study and practical training, there is now no excuse not to further your education. You can find out more by visiting www.cbes.org.nz or by phoning 0800 40 80 90.

For more information please contact
Isabella Hormes
Coastguard Boating Education
isabella@cbes.org.nz
0800 40 80 90

Source: Day Skipper & Boatmaster Unit Standards increase in Value

Sail Nelson - NZ RYA School of the Year Award 2010

Thu, 05 Aug 2010 00:00:00 +1200

Sail Nelson - NZ RYA School of the Year Award 2010

Sail Nelson is the deserving recipient of the NZ RYA School of the Year Award, presented at the RYA (Royal Yachting Association) Forum 2010, held at the Richmond Yacht Club in Auckland last month.

The award was presented by James Steven (RYA UK Training Manager & Chief Examiner) to the Nelson based training centre, in recognition of their dedication and delivery of internationally recognised RYA courses.

“Sail Nelson has done very well to have built their business to become by far the biggest sailing school in the South Island. They always have excellent feedback from students. Whilst the sailing industry might be perceived as a nice way to make an easy living, in reality it was very hard work and operators had to put a lot into it to reach the standards of this year’s winner” says Neil Murray, Training and Development Manager of Coastguard Boating Education.

Sail Nelsons principal instructor, John Moore, is not only an expert sailor and teacher, but the attention to detail in the presentation of his yacht and the hospitality and personal attention students receive puts Sail Nelson in a class of its own. John grew up sailing with his father in the picturesque Tasman Bay and has unparalleled knowledge of the waters and conditions in the region. He has also sailed internationally as a crew member and master.
At just 19 years of age he was New Zealand’s youngest ever certified Deep Sea Skipper, commanding deep sea fishing vessels in the pioneering days of Nelson’s offshore fishing industry. He spent 12 years as a senior tutor of navigation and seamanship at the New Zealand School of Fisheries, based in Nelson and later returned to his first love, sailing.

As a qualified and practising Maritime New Zealand examiner with over six years of instructional experience, John has been kept very busy since Sail Nelson was founded in 2004.
A strong advocate of the RYA John is quoted as saying that the RYA syllabus teaches sea safety while students are on the water and gives practical skills for the enjoyment of both tourists and New Zealanders. I love my classroom in the Abel Tasman National Park and across the Nelson region. Traditionally navigation and sea safety has been taught as a theoretical classroom subject and my experience is that it comes alive, and the understanding of knowledge is faster when applied on a muiti-day practical course on the ocean. People who come aboard gain new skills and the experience enhances their lives and their self beliefs. It’s great to see people have a positive and enjoyable experience.”

For more information or to enrol on a RYA practical course contact Coastguard Boating Education, free phone 0800 40 80 90 or visit www.cbes.org.nz.

For more information please contact
Isabella Hormes
Coastguard Boating Education
isabella@cbes.org.nz
0800 40 80 90

Source: Sail Nelson - NZ RYA School of the Year Award 2010

Boat Shows and Events 2010

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 00:00:00 +1300

Boat Shows and Events 2010

Waikato Boat, Fishing & Leisure Show 2010
15-17 October at Mystery Creek Events Centre, Hamilton

Dunedin Boat Show 2010
29-31 October at Edgar Centre

Hutchwilco Boat Show 2011
12-15 May 2011 at ASB Showgrounds, Auckland

Auckland International Boat Show 2011
15-19 September 2011 at Viaduct Harbour, Auckland

Source: Boat Shows and Events 2010

RYA boating books now available on the CBES website

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 00:00:00 +1300

RYA boating books now available on the CBES website

Coastguard Boating Education (CBES) is now selling RYA (Royal Yachting Association) books and DVDs through the CBES website, www.cbes.org.nz. It is a convenient and secure way to purchase your favourite book for yourself, or as a gift.

The range of titles covers everything you ever wanted to know about boating from ‘Day Skipper Shorebased Notes’ through to navigation, maintenance, cruising, powerboating and even how to fish from a yacht. Containing concise explanations and vibrant illustrations, they are an ideal compliment to your training course in addition to being a handy reference appealing to a wide range of boating expertise.
Special pricing for online orders within New Zealand is now available. With over 60 titles to choose from, why not hook one as a Father’s Day present?

For more information please contact
Isabella Hormes
E: isabella@cbes.org.nz
P: 0800 40 80 90

Source: RYA boating books now available on the CBES website

RYA Top tips: Launch & Recovery

Mon, 15 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +1300

RYA Top Tips: Launch & Recovery

Much of this article on boat launching and recovery will be rudimentary for the seasoned boatie, but every year we welcome hundreds of newcomer boaties to our waters, whom will learn from these wise RYA words of instruction, and a little refresher for the old timers will not hurt any either.

Launching and recovery is something that you pay scant regard to when you first think about getting a boat, but unless you keep your boat on the water, it is definitely a fundamental part of boating.

The thing is that, if you don't know what you are doing, launch and recovery can be very stressful, even dangerous. So a bit of planning and preparation can ensure that your boating enjoyment isn't marred by any launching or recovery disasters.

This excerpt from Paul Glatzel's RYA Powerboat Handbook should help to ensure that you keep your wheels firmly on the slipway and your boat under control at all times.

Here are a few pointers...

Planning

Where to launch? Public boat ramps are usually provided free of charge by Regional Councils. Privately owned marina or club ramps may be for members only or a fee may be required.
Check if there are local bylaws to consider, some areas allow only certain types or sizes of boats and some bylaws prohibit (for instance) using the engine to power the boat on or off the trailer.
Some ramps are suitable only for smaller craft, while others have a walkway or dock alongside, making launching much easier. Beware, some ramps end abruptly leaving the trailer wheels stuck in the mud at low water.
Ensure your vehicle is up to the job. Four wheel drive vehicles are best. Smaller front wheel drives may suffer from wheel spin on a steep gradient ramp or if the weight of the trailer is excessive. Choose a boat ramp and launch method to suit your vehicle and boat.
Check the local tide tables in advance to ensure you have enough water for launching and recovery.
Are conditions safe for launching? Strong winds, especially if they are blowing onshore, can make a launch very difficult and even dangerous.

Preparation

On arrival, park well away from the ramp.
Remove the tow flag, tie-down straps and engine support bracket (if fitted).
Insert the bung/s and check the hull for any damage or stress which may have been sustained in transit.
Check that all safety equipment and any other gear needed for the trip is aboard.

After a long journey let the wheel bearings cool for 45 minutes before launching.

Immersing hot wheel bearings earlier may create a vacuum as the bearings rapidly cool, this draws in water and washes out the grease from the bearings.

Launching

How far the trailer is reversed into the water depends on the gradient of the slipway, the size and weight of boat, and how easy it is to launch from the trailer.

The rear of the boat needs to float so that it can be reversed or pushed off the trailer. Car wheels are best kept well away from salt water.

Manoeuvre the trailer to the top of the slipway.
Reverse down the slipway if possible only partially submerging the trailer's wheels (to preserve the bearings and brakes). Un-shackle the safety chain and very carefully, gripping the winch handle firmly with two hands, take the strain, release the winch catch and slowly ease off until you can undo the winch wire hook or shackle. Hold on to the painter and push the boat off the trailer or hop into the boat and reverse it away.

If the gradient of the slipway is shallow - preventing you from launching with the trailer attached to the car, use a rope or metal extension bar to enable the trailer to be reversed further into the water without immersing the car wheels:

At the top of the slipway, chock and disconnect the trailer, lower the jockey wheel and put the handbrake on (if fitted).
Connect a long line between the trailer and tow bar using bowlines.
Drive the car forwards to take up the slack in the line. Remove the trailer handbrake and chocks and slowly reverse down the ramp while a crew member keeps the trailer in line.
The crew may need to wade into the water to ease the boat off.

Tip - Launching or recovering with a rope between the vehicle and trailer can be useful to keep the tow vehicle's wheels clear of the lower slippery part of the slipway and water.

Danger - If launching or recovering with the trailer detached from the tow vehicle, ensure the trailer is well in the water before pushing the boat off or winching it on. The weight of the boat on the rear of the trailer can cause the nose of the trailer to be forced rapidly skywards as the weight transfers.

Recovery

In many instances it is possible to stop the boat whilst drifting towards the slip, jump out when the water is shallow enough and hold the boat until the trailer comes into the water. On other occasions, especially where the ramp is steep, it can be best to drive the boat onto the trailer.

Danger - Serious injury can occur when boats roll off trailers with the winch wire attached and the winch handle rotating rapidly. When winching a boat onto the trailer always activate the ratchet/safety catch so that it will lock if you accidentally let go of the handle. Never try to grab a winch handle if it is spinning.

Driving onto a trailer

This technique requires careful throttle control and more care is required than with a manual recovery. The helmsman needs to line up the approach to the trailer compensating for wind and tide, arriving at the trailer so that the forward 'V' of the hull aligns centrally on the trailer.

Ease the trailer into the water so that it is partially submerged and allows the boat to drive on to it.
Trim the engine up so that the prop does not ground on approach, ensure that cooling water is still circulating.
Drive the boat on to the trailer compensating for wind and stream.
When the boat is on the trailer, attach the winch hook or shackle the forward D ring and safety chain or painter.
If a rope or extension bar was used, chock the wheels and reattach the vehicle to the trailer.
Ideally, flush the engine cooling system with fresh water and give the boat and trailer a hose down. If your engine does not have a dedicated flushing point, use a hose attached to flushing muffs to direct fresh water to the intake. Start the engine and run in neutral for three to four minutes. Check your engine manual for 'care after use' details.

Danger - To avoid the boat accidentally sliding off the trailer when backing down or driving up the ramp, always ensure the winch wire and safety chain or painter are firmly attached - securing the boat to the trailer.

Before towing

Ensure the boat is centrally and securely on the trailer.
Use tie-down straps to hold the rear of the boat firmly to the trailer.
Ensure the winch wire is firmly connected to the D-ring on the bow to hold the front of the boat in position.
Use a safety chain between the boat and trailer as well as between the vehicle and trailer as a safety measure.
Stow or remove all loose gear, fit the tow flag and check all trailer lights.

Tip:

Steep slipways and heavy boats can cause serious harm; so take things slowly. Plan what you are going to do and double check everything before you start. Remember, a good launch is one that is slow, controlled and safe. Hopefully these tips have helped you with what can seem a complicated procedure - and well help avoid any embarrassing scenes at the boat ramp!

Excerpts taken from "RYA Powerboat Handbook" ($54.90) by Paul Glatzel, available from Trans Pacific Marine 0800 422 427 sales@ transpacific.co.nz

Practical powerboat courses are available from RYA Training Centres throughout New Zealand, administered by Coastguard Boating Education: Contact 0800 40 80 90 or www.cbes.org.nz

Source: RYA Top tips: Launch & Recovery

Ask the RYA Experts: Boat Handling - In Difficult Conditions

Mon, 15 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +1300

Boat Handling - In Difficult Conditions

It is vital of course to obtain a marine weather forecast before departure, however sooner or later you're bound to face conditions that will test your skill and nerve. An increase in wind strength or sudden change in direction can transform a tranquil trip into a rollercoaster ride.

With experience, skill and the right boat, heavy conditions can be thoroughly exhilarating. But without the right technique, it can be unnerving and even potentially dangerous. Recent research has shown that crew seated in a powerboat can experience forces as high as 14G – not appreciated by your spine!

So, good technique is all important, and these tips from Paul Glatzel's RYA Powerboat Handbook are an excellent starting point.

Paul explains: "In rough conditions, match your speed and course to the conditions, with careful control of the throttles and steering. Jumping from wave to wave or ploughing through waves can be great fun, but you, your crew and the boat will find it very wearing. Make sure that everyone has good handholds and seating positions and the helmsman is wearing the kill-cord."

Driving upwind

Waves are generated by wind and generally come from the same direction. Driving into the wind therefore means driving into the waves. Driving downwind, the boat drives with the waves. Applying correct technique will ensure safety and comfort.

Driving upwind entails trimming down and
driving up the face of the wave.

Ease off at the top of the wave to ensure you do not take off.

Accelerate down the back of the wave, speeding up to raise the bow as the trough is reached, then drive up the next wave towards the next crest.

The ride then becomes relatively smooth and quite fast. Progression is achieved by throttling on and off as you move over each wave. Trimming down ensures that the 'V' of the hull is used to slice into the approaching wave, while applying more throttle lifts the bow in the trough to drive up the approaching wave and prevent the bow driving straight into it.

This avoids the need for trimming up and down to achieve the same effect.

Tip - Upwind - This can be summed up as: when the bow is rising - throttle on, when the bow is falling - throttle off. Whether this proves to be a comfortable ride or not depends to a large extent on the 'wavelength' (the distance between the wave crests).

Short steep seas make it very difficult, as there is little time between wave crests for the helmsman to adjust the throttle settings.

In this case, you may find it easier to drive at 30º–45º to the wave front. This increases the 'apparent wavelength' and can therefore allow you to increase your speed and smooth your journey.

You will then need to zigzag towards your destination but, while longer in distance, this method can be less stressful and quicker.

Beam seas

Large breaking waves taken on the beam have the potential to capsize a boat. Keep a fair speed up and constantly watch for breaking waves. Steer a path behind, or in front of and away from them - as conditions dictate.

The speed and power of your boat is key. If you get caught on the downwind side of a breaking wave, turn into the wave and power on to climb up the wave, or alternatively turn away from the wave and outrun it.

Driving downwind

One of the most dangerous conditions for any boat is a 'following sea'. If a breaking wave catches the vessel, the aerated confused water catches the prop, reducing its ability to bite.

The following wave may then turn the craft side-on to the waves making capsize almost inevitable with the next wave. To avoid this, be sure to match the boat's speed to that of the waves.

Another problem of going down the face of a wave is going too fast through the wave, causing the bow to fall into the trough (and plough into the back of the next wave). Then as the boat loses speed, the next wave pivots the boat beam-on and either swamps or capsizes the boat.

To make progress in these conditions, trim the bow up and ride the wave, staying behind the crest.

As it breaks, care is needed not to power through the breaking wave too early. As the wave breaks, you may need to ease the power in the confused water to avoid the prop losing grip.

A good look out astern must be kept at all times to avoid chasing waves catching you up. Alternatively, pick a calm patch to turn into the breaking sea and look for another destination.

Watch your boat speed as you may need to ease the throttle, then power through to sit on the back of the next wave.

The conditions you experience may be magnified or reduced by the combination of wind, tidal stream and depth of water.

Wind blowing in the opposite direction to the tide ('wind against tide') will create short, sharp, unpleasant seas. Tide flowing in the same direction as the wind will have a smoothing effect.

Conclusions

Competent handling in rough conditions can make the difference between, a stressful, potentially dangerous experience and an exciting, enjoyable trip. Hopefully these tips will help you to get the most out of your powerboating.

Two "golden rules" drummed-in on all RYA Powerboat courses are:

Always wear the kill-cord
Always maintain three points of contact (one hand on the throttle, one hand on the wheel, and your butt on the seat)

Excerpts taken from "RYA Powerboat Handbook" ($54.90) by Paul Glatzel, available from Trans Pacific Marine 0800 422 427 sales@transpacific.co.nz

Practical boating courses are available from RYA Training Centres throughout New Zealand, administered by Coastguard Boating Education: Contact 0800 40 80 90 or www.cbes.org.nz

Source: Ask the RYA Experts: Boat Handling - In Difficult Conditions

Ask the RYA Experts: Buying & Owning Your First Boat

Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +1300

Buying & Owning Your First Boat

For anyone who has a love of the sea and boats, there can be few more satisfying moments than stepping aboard your newly purchased boat for the first time.

It doesn't matter whether it's a beaten up second hand tinnie or a spanking new speedboat, the feeling of ownership is hard to beat. Much like buying a car, however, it's well worth doing your homework before you take the plunge - so to speak.

If you're a first time buyer, then the whole process can seem quite intimidating, so it's well worth getting some advice from the experts. One person who knows more than most about these matters is Paul Glatzel.

Paul has masses of boating experience and his RYA Powerboat Handbook is chock full of useful tips and pointers. This excerpt from the book should give you a bit of a steer as you navigate through the minefield of the boat market.

Paul explains: "Buying a boat can be stressful, but it really doesn't have to be if you follow a few golden rules. Hopefully these tips will help ensure you don't fall into any obvious traps so you can get on with the most important thing: having fun".

A Few Pointers

There are a number of factors to consider when choosing a boat:

Intended use: A boat to be used mainly for fishing in the winter will be somewhat different to a boat mainly used for water-skiing in the summer. Each boat is designed with a particular use in mind and it is important to choose one that will meet your needs.
Budget: Boating can be expensive, but it need not be. A small second-hand boat can be bought for the same price as a PC system and can be an ideal starter boat. A large budget doesn't necessarily equate to more enjoyment.
Running costs: Buying the boat is only the first part of the cost. Fuel, equipment and storage should also be budgeted for. To store the boat in a marina, boat park or even to have the trailer serviced can cost a small fortune, so shop around. Insurance and servicing, plus the initial outlay on safety equipment can all add up and bite a large chunk out of your bank balance, so do your sums and get quotes on running costs before buying.
Area of use: The intended area of operation will be a major consideration. An area with open water and often choppy conditions requires a boat with the hull characteristics, strength and power to match. This will differ if you plan to do most of your boating on calm flat in-land waters. Check what fuel is available at the marina or boating club if you plan to keep your boat in the water. This may influence your decision when deciding to go for petrol or diesel.
Do your research: Check magazines for boat tests on the boat you are interested in, many publishers make back issues of boat tests available. Use websites web-based forums to learn of other people's views and experiences. Build up as much background knowledge as possible on the type of boat you want to buy.
If you're after a new boat, then Boat shows are also an excellent place to shop around, ask dealers a few questions and often pick up a healthy discount.
Always seek proof of ownership via original invoices. As with a car a good service history and receipts indicate a good ownership trail. If buying from a dealer, is it a brokerage boat or one of their own craft? If it is their own boat you will have protection under the Sale of Goods Act.
Establish that no finance company has a charge or ownership right over the vessel.
Invest in a hull and engine survey – damaged and worn engines can be extremely expensive to fix.
A 'low mileage' boat is not always the best. A boat that has been well looked after and run regularly can be a very good buy.

Insurance

Once you have bought your boat, insure it. Most marinas and harbours stipulate that you must be insured to keep your boat there.

Storage

Smaller boats are often stored on trailers, therefore trailing from home becomes an option. Many boatyards offer 'store and slip' facilities. Increasingly popular is storing your craft on a 'dry-stack' rack system where a forklift retrieves your boat then launches it when required. Keeping a boat out of the water removes the need for antifouling and allows it to dry out when not in use.

Larger boats are usually kept afloat in marinas or on moorings, although even boats up to 10m can be kept ashore. Storage costs vary enormously. Popular marinas and storage sites are far more expensive than boatyards or other secure storage in less congested boating areas. Mooring buoys and pile moorings will be cheaper than a marina for larger vessels, but at the cost of convenience.

Boat Care

Boat care is largely a matter of common sense:

Wash the boat after each outing to remove salt deposits.
If possible, flush water through the engine water intakes to avoid salt crystallisation in the cooling system.
Keep batteries charged through the winter (remove them if they are not being used).
Grease battery terminals with petroleum jelly to ensure the electrical connections remain good and spray all electrics with a water repellent spray to keep moisture out.
Consider spraying other exposed parts with a silicone spray.
Have your engine serviced regularly, according to the manufacturers' recommendations.
High-usage boat engines may need to be serviced more than once a year, whereas boats used less frequently will benefit from an end of season service and winterisation if they are not to going to be used during the winter.

Paul concluded: "These are just a couple of basic pointers, but it's worth using them as a checklist when you're looking around. It could save you a lot of stress in the long term.

"Other than that, the best advice I can give you is to get out on the water and get every last cent's worth of value out of your boat. That is where the real rewards are to be had".

Excerpts taken from "RYA Powerboat Handbook" ($49.90) by Paul Glatzel, available from Trans Pacific Marine 0800 422 427 sales@transpacific.co.nz

Practical powerboat courses are available from RYA Training Centres throughout New Zealand, administered by Coastguard Boating Education: Contact 0800 40 80 90 or www.cbes.org.nz

Source: Ask the RYA Experts: Buying & Owning Your First Boat